Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Wherever you go, there you are: a weekend in the wilderness.

Happy belated Easter everyone! I spent the Easter weekend in Namibia on a rafting trip led by my landlord who apart from managing several rental houses is also quite the nature man. He organized a five day trip rafting down the Orange River in Namibia for 37 students (11 from my house, 9 from Northwestern, and 16 from Stanford). He and four other guides led us down a 70km stretch of the river in little two-person boats called crocs, which are like kayaks but more easily manoeuvrable for novice rowers. This was the most atypical Easter I have ever had, but I have to say it was one of the best.
On Thursday we all piled into a 60 seat charter bus at 5am and headed for the border. The drive usually takes about 8 hours, but with the size of the bus and the trailer we were towing behind us, not to mention the lengthy pee breaks and border crossings that are required with that many people it took us around 12, so it was a long day of driving. We arrived at Amanzi River Camp around 5 (note that I left my phone and watch at home so I either had a vague sense of time or none at all on the trip), had a little swimming time in the river, ate dinner and went to bed. It was a cold night at Amanzi and we didn’t get much sleep because none of us were properly dressed for non-tent weather, but we survived. The next morning we woke up at sunrise, ate breakfast, and packed up camp, which required putting all of our belongings in a water tight “dry bag” that would sit in our boats with us along with a cooler of food that had been packed for the trip. Then after a short safety talk and rowing lesson we were off on the river! The Orange River is the border between South Africa and Namibia, so the whole way SA was on our left and Namibia on our right. The River was unusually high according to David (our landlord/river guide), which made our trip easier because the current was strong and required little paddling. The first couple hours that day we actually were just swimming next to our boats and floating down the river enjoying the scenery—I thought I was in heaven! We were on the river for the bulk of the day, and when we pulled over to have lunch David said that he usually doesn’t get as far as that in a whole day, and we still had a few more hours to go. We set up camp for the night on the South Africa side of the river, literally in the middle of nowhere. No toilets, no tents, no nothing. All we had with us was our sleeping bags and mats and whatever we had packed in our dry bags. While I have been camping before, I have never truly “roughed it” until this weekend.  David and the guides cooked chicken and sausage over the campfire, and after dinner the stars were out and in abundance, so we all got into our sleeping bags and watched them for hours. I think as a group we saw more than 10 shooting stars that night, it was phenomenal star gazing. The next two days were pretty much more of the same; waking up at dawn, paddling down the river, being in constant awe of the landscape surrounding us, and epic stargazing at night. On Sunday we had covered so much ground that we had time for a long hike along the way. David kept stressing that it was a pretty strenuous hike since there was no trail, and he wasn’t kidding. This hike was practically straight up ¾ of the way, and the last ¼ was covered with loose rock so you had to choose your footing carefully or else the person behind you would get a face-full of rock. The view at the top was well worth it though—you could see for miles in both directions and the river below you. Also there were these strange plants that are millions of years old—they grow 1cm every 100 years and were at least 5ft tall now. After the hike we only had one more hour of paddling left before we reached our destination. We then got picked up and driven back to Amanzi where we spent the last night of the trip before heading home early Monday morning.
Our first "rough" campsite

Our lovely sleeping area

some of us at the top of our first hike


Old, old tree.

Five days without a phone, iPod, TV, computer, or internet gives you a lot of time to think. It also makes you realize what is really important, and I have realized that none of the aforementioned objects really are. Life is too short to be wasted worrying about material things, and that is a lesson that I have been learning slowly throughout my time in South Africa. I am as guilty as most of being a typical consumer of things I don’t need at home, and I am going to challenge myself to change that when I get back to the states. I know it’s going to be difficult, especially since I won’t be without a phone, iPod, TV, computer or internet. I have all those things and I use them, which is fine in moderation. The trick is putting all of those things aside once in a while and asking yourself what is really important. For me the answer is family, friends, and helping others. As long as I can be around people I love and do what I love to do while helping others I know I will be happy. Everything else is just a bonus. Even as I am writing this, I know that words are not enough to describe what I was feeling and thinking on this trip. For me it wasn't just a "weekend in the wilderness" as I have so cleverly titled it. It was a realization that the things that have mattered to me for the past 21 years of my life might no longer matter, and the fear that I might, when I return back to the lifestyle to which I am accustomed, not be able to acclimate to my old life. To again quote Into the Wild, “At long last he was unencumbered, emancipated from the stifling world of his parents and peers, a world of abstraction and security and material excess, a world in which he felt grievously cut off from the raw throb of existence.” This trip in general, and especially these past five days, have given me an accute awareness of what I do and do not want out of life, and I am both excited and terrified to find out how I will incorporate those values into my life back home.
In other news, last week I shadowed my friend Melissa on one of her service days. Melissa works through the Amy Biehl foundation doing tutoring and mentoring in schools. She spends half of her day at St. Mary’s primary school teaching a reading class to 6th graders, and the second half of her day at John Pama primary school facilitating a peer education class on HIV/AIDS. The day I was following her though, she and a couple other volunteers had organized a spelling bee competition for the 6th and 7th graders and I was asked to be the judge. Hanging out with the kids all day was such a great experience, they were so nervous about the spelling bee and practiced all day. They did really well in the bee, and one of Melissa’s adorable 6th graders even won! It was such a special moment, he was so happy and excited and didn’t stop smiling until we left. The reason I was shadowing Melissa is because I am going to start teaching a similar reading class at a different elementary school one day a week, and after my experience with Melissa’s students I couldn’t be more excited to start. Though I have enjoyed my experience at Gender DynamiX, the work there has been slow and there have been some logistical conflicts that have prohibited me being able to really get involved in the organization, so from now on I will be there just one day a week and at my school one or two other days. The kids have this week off so I will hopefully be starting next week, more news on that to come!

Monday, April 11, 2011

Shake the Dust

I have yet again fallen behind on my blog posting! Though these past two weeks have been more mellow than others, so it shouldn't be too hard to catch you all up. Two weeks ago my friend Katie's Mom was here visiting, and I got to tag along to a few of their outings (without having to pay for transportation) which was hugely appreciated. We took a day trip down the peninsula and went to Muizenberg for a quick visit, stopped in Kalk Bay (yet again...I never get sick of that place!), and then to Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope. Cape Point is the place that they first thought was the Southern most point in Africa, but after more exploring realized their mistake (the actual Southern most point is Cape Agulhas, which we visited last Saturday). Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope (the Southwestern most point in Africa) were beautiful and we lucked out on the weather--the sun came out for us even though it was a rainy week. We also stopped in Simonstown at Boulder's Beach where all the penguins hang out--that's right, penguins! They were very adorable, but a strange sight to see in Africa. We drove down one side of the peninsula and came up the other, and both drives were equally stunning. Then on Sunday we spent the morning in Kirstenbosch and then attended another concert at the amphitheatre. As summer is ending here, it was the last concert in the series so we had to take advantage. Then Katie’s mom made us homemade spaghetti and meatballs, which were DELICIOUS but also made me realize how much I miss homemade Italian food! It was great to spend time with family memebers, even if they weren't my own :)

African Penguins!

Hout Bay where we ate dinner
The weekdays didn't bring a lot of excitement, but I got caught up on some much needed sleep, postcard writing, and reading. On Friday we had a guest speaker in our theology class. She was Mary Burton, an ex-member and chairperson of the Black Sash, a prominent women's organization that protested Apartheid during its existence. She also served as a comissioner for the Truth and Reconciliation Commission on the Human Rights Committee. Being a commissioner of this committee was a huge honor during this time--one had to be nominated, publicly interviewed on television, and then personally selected by Mandela himself. The second of three TRC comittees during the immediate post-Apartheid years, the Human Rights Committee was in charge of hearing and recording the stories of victims of violence and/or opression during Apartheid. This committee worked in cooperation with the Amnesty Committee who were in charge of reviewing, and either granting or rejecting applications for amnesty. If the amnesty applicant did not give full disclosure of the crimes they had committed, or if their account did not match the account of the victim, they would not be granted amnesty. The TRC heard over 22,000 statements from victims, recieved 7,000 applications for amnesty and granted only 2,700. Hearing Mary's stories about her involvement with the Black Sash and the TRC were truly fascinating. Reading about these organisations is one thing, but hearing a personal account from a woman who experienced the work of the TRC first hand was a rare and special experience.

On Sunday, Katie and I attempted to chase the bungy jumping adrenaline rush by going paragliding off of Lion's Head. It was an incredible thrill, though not quite as terrifying as the bungy, which I was totally okay with. We hiked up about 3/4 of the mountain with our two guides, and within 15 minutes I was flying! The whole operation was really simple--all I had to do was strap on the harness and the helmet, wait for a good wind to come along, and run as fast and as hard as I could off the mountain. I was nervous for a brief second, but before I knew it I was seated comfortably in the harness and flying over the beautiful coastline of Cape Town, Table Mountain to one side and the ocean to the other. The wind only kept us up for about fifteen minutes, but it was an incredible fifteen minutes and well worth it. For anyone who has ever wanted to fly, I highly reccomend it.

During our house bonding session this week, one girl read a poem by Anis Mojgani called "Shake the Dust," which he performs flawlessly in this youtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qDtHdloK44. It had a huge impact on me and I highly reccomend watching the video if you haven't seen it. For me, this entire trip has been my way of shaking the dust, and I think I have done so successfully for the most part so far. Here are a few exerpts from the poem, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

"This is for the two-year-olds who cannot be understood because they speak half-English and half-god.
Shake the dust...
For the ones who are forgotten, the ones the amendments do not stand up for.
For the ones who are told to speak only when spoken to and then are never spoken to. Speak every time you stand so you do not forget yourself. Do not let a moment go by that doesn't remind you that your heart beats 900 times a day and that there are enough gallons of blood to make you an ocean.
Do not settle for letting these waves settle and the dust to collect in your veins."

 
ready for takeoff!